Kaunas - building optimism

Here are some strolls that will stretch your legs and see the products of a proud, independent and intriguing nation.

In medieval times the Poland-Lithuanian commonwealth was the most powerful state in Europe. But like with all great powers, its came to an end and by the First World War, it Lithuania was a small part of the Russian Empire. But during the interwar years it was independent with Kaunas as its capital. This led to a flowering of new architecture, known as the Architecture of Optimism. More recently, with the new threat of Russia, we're seeing a new wave of street art exploring the often difficult past and yet still feeling surprisingly optimistic.

If you plan to stay longer and want more information on what to see and do, check out the tourist info here: https://visit.kaunas.lt/en/see-and-do/

There are also some nice interactive maps here:  https://kaunastika.lt/

leg stretch via the park with art (blue 1.5 km)

This brief stroll goes from the bus to the train station the long way around which dips our toes into some of the history of the town and nation. Over the road from the bus station is Ramybės (Serentity) Park (1) and old cemetery with an impressive orthodox church. It contains a series of memorials worth strolling around but it's also now home to three murals since a street art festival in 2022.

Farewell (2), was designed as a woodcutting, All Souls' Day 1956 (3), commemorating the Hungarian uprising and Henry Parland (4), celebrating the life of the Finnish-Swedish writer who lived here in Kaunas. If this has whetted your appetite and you have the time, why not wander around the town to see what else has been painted.

wander around town (orange 4km)

This adds in a loop to get a feel for the town - maybe you'll want to stay longer.

Wandering past the Leja Goldberg mural (5) reminding us of the Jewish heritage

Then on to the main drag - Laisvės alėjos, where people like to promenade. at the far end is the old post office (6) which is a example of the buildings erected when Kaunas became capital of the newly independent  Lithuania - known as the architecture of optimism.

Further down past the the statue of Grand Duke Vytautas (7) and in front of Archangel St. Michael's church, is a memorial to Dutch businessman Jan Zwartendijk (8) who ran Philips factories here during the war. It commemorates his efforts to help save Jews during the war by providing visas to all them to escape to safety.

Archangel St. Michael's church (9) is well worth a nosey - built in the neo-byzantine style with museum.

On the walk back to the station, there are other examples of the 'Architecture of Optimism' such as Lithuanian Education History Museum (10).