Arles - A wander with Vincent
We're in the proudly Provencal city of Arles - and by coming to Arles, we're following in the footsteps, or more precisely along the train tracks, of Vincent van Gogh who came here by train in 1888.
Let’s see if we can work out what it was about this place that inspired him to go from making paintings like these:
to paintings like these:
...pictures that have made him pretty much the most famous painter of all time. (Incidentally, Picasso came to Arles on several occasions, apparently out of love for van Gogh and bullfighting).
Vincent came to Arles in February 1888. It was just meant to be a stopover on his way to Marseille and maybe even Japan, but once here he knew he was in the right place for him and started knocking out almost a painting a day..
or night.
As the first shoots of spring came, Vincent set out to capture nature in full bloom in the surrounding countryside and also in the local park (Le Jardin d'été).
Signs have been put up at the key places along with a map, so it’s easy to take yourself on a tour and try to match up what Vincent painted with what you can see now.
There’s an intriguing building backing onto the park, let’s go around the other side.
This is the Roman theatre, which would be the highlight of most towns
but tends to get upstaged by its amphitheatrical neighbour.
When the Romans came to Arles they made themselves at home, installing all the latest mod-cons like this arena, which made it an ideal place for Julius Caesar’s crack Sixth Legion to retire.
It’s still in use today for the non-lethal course camarguaise and spanish-style bullfighting
but it was neither the ancient arena, nor what was going on in the ring that caught Vincent’s eye. It was the crowds that interested him (and one person here, we’re going to see again).
Vincent wrote regularly to his brother and fellow artists, like Gauguin, about how great it would be to set up a community of artists here in Arles. Together they could be inspired by the southern light, landscapes and people.
And while he waited for others to join him, he spent his days painting the countryside
And in the evenings, he painted scenes of other people at cafes.
You can come and get the full experience at the Cafe van Gogh on the site of the one Vincent painted.
There’s even a van Gogh salad - presumably dressed in sunflower oil...
But while you’re here, don’t forget to tip your hat to this guy. He’s Frederik Mistral, and was the Nobel prize winning driving force behind the revival of the local Provencal language..
Eventually, in late October 1888, Gauguin joined Vincent. They set up together in this place, the Maison Jaune - which has long since gone.
Well, at least you can visit the 'supermarché jaune' instead!
And they soon both set to work on painting their neighbour Madame Ginoux.
by Vincent
by Gauguin
remember her?
Vincent and Paul Gauguin's first outing was to the Alyscamps or Roman necropolis.
Alyscamps is a local Provençale word meaning Elysian fields, which was a sort of heaven for the Romans and translates into French as Champs-Élysées.
While Gauguin produced a painting that balanced composition and colour with people and ancient buildings being the subjects, Vincent produced a flurry of paintings inspired by nature and everyday life.
by Gauguin
by Vincent
by Vincent
by Vincent
If we follow this old railway track that runs past the Alyscamps, we can get to the canal where Vincent painted little bridges like the ones back home in Holland. These have now gone, but a replica can been seen.
Vincent liked to go on long walks and when he ran out of materials, he used to draw with a sharpened reed.
After an intense 2 months Gauguin and Vincent fell out leading to the infamous incident with the ear. Vincent was taken to the hospital, the Hotel Dieu.
The gardens are still laid out as they were in his day.
But there is something else going on here today - a bande dessinée festival. Bande dessinée, or graphic novels, are big in France - some are even for kids! Today fans get to meet their favourite authors who are here doing book signings.
And for people who just like words, there’s another book signing going on in the Place du Forum.
The book-signing was for this Arles-based novel (among others from Portaparole):
But before we leave Arles, let's visit one more place which no art lover should miss.
...the Fondation Vincent van Gogh. As well as being guaranteed to see something special by the man himself, the place is dedicated to showcasing the work of artists of our time
And there we have it. Vincent came to Arles hoping to find inspiration and a place where artists could thrive.
And, he’s done just that.
Thanks Vincent
See my 'station stroll' for Arles for a 3km walk that takes in most of the sites listed above.